In the summer of 1975, Peter Walker’s journey into the Alps began with a sense of adventure, a backpack, and a train ticket. Growing up in New York during the “back to nature” ethic of the decade, Peter set out to explore Europe, staying in campgrounds and working as an impromptu hiking guide. It was this immersion in the breathtaking landscapes of the Swiss Alps that planted the seeds for what would become Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures.
A Love Affair with the Alps
Peter’s first Alpine summer unfolded in a sleepy Berner Oberland town. Cows heralded the mornings with their chiming bells, and the days were spent entertaining guests on hikes. One memorable outing involved Peter’s boss, at the time, hiring a local guide to summit the Doldenhorn—an experience Peter describes as one of the best days ever.
After returning to New York, Peter invested in climbing gear and developed his skills with one goal in mind: to return to the Alps. Drawn to Zermatt, the epicenter of Swiss alpinism, he spent summers camping in the town, which in those days was a quiet village with soccer games and beers shared among locals and fellow adventurers. Interesting enough, the soccer pitch was a huge piece of open space right in the center of town. Despite the changes over the decades, Peter still feels the same joy landing in Zermatt today as he did in the early years.
From Campsites to Founding Ryder-Walker
A career turning point for Peter came in 1984 when he paired with Jon Ryder, a prolific alpinist with a deep knowledge of Switzerland. That summer, a group of three guests from the hiking company they were working for insisted on meeting the two guides for beers. They surprised Peter and John with an offer of seed money to start their own guiding company. Fueled by this opportunity, the duo ran around Switzerland, meeting generous hotel owners and securing connections. Zermatt even provided free railway, and lift passes for their exploration.
Ryder-Walker’s first guided trip launched in 1985, exploring Zermatt and Saas Fee. As the company grew, Peter called on friends like Malcolm Fenton to guide, eventually accumulating a team of skilled hiking guides. Early trips catered mostly to Americans, with ads in the New York Times and New Yorker, and word-of-mouth spreading the idea of hiking in the Alps. Back then, it was a brand-new concept with little competition. Today, Ryder-Walker continues to expand, offering unique itineraries for clients who have “done it all” on five continents and over 40 countries.
Huts, History, and Changing Times
The mountain huts Peter encountered were more than just accommodations—they were living history. On one adventure near the French-Italian border at the Croix du Bonhomme refuge, Peter arrived late in dense mist, hearing distant voices from hut long before seeing it. What appeared as a crumbling relic with cobblestones and falling walls proved to be a haven. Inside, mountain hippies strummed guitars in smoky, dimly lit rooms while a French flag flew defiantly outside. The conviviality of the nights was fueled by their locally grown Genepe, an Eaux de Vie that made in the back room that they swore was hallucinogenic (Peter wasn’t so sure it was true). Guests who arrived weary and skeptical often left enchanted by the rustic charm of such places.
Huts in the Dolomites became a personal favorite for their incredible cuisine, rich WWI history, and their dramatic settings. Unlike in France or Switzerland, where glaciers dictate hut placement, the huts in the Dolomites seem to defy gravity, perched precariously in the most improbable locations. Their staff, often competing for guests, are known for their warmth and hospitality.
Peter recalls that many classic huts have since been remodeled, losing some of their original character. Yet, the stories and atmospheres remain unforgettable, connecting hikers to the region’s farmers, soldiers, and past travelers who left their mark.
The Craziest Meal
One of Peter’s most memorable meals took place at the Waldhotel Fletschhorn in Saas Fee. Managed by Irma, a celebrated chef known for her eccentricity and passion, the restaurant became legendary for its multi-hour dining experiences. One afternoon, Peter—fresh off guiding the chef—was treated to an extravagant meal featuring milk-fed veal kidneys flown in from Israel. Peter never ate the prized veal kidney, he surreptitiously fed it to Comfort, his enormous long-haired German Shepherd who was curled up under the table away from Irma’s gaze. The restaurant, now under new ownership, remains an icon of dining in the Alps.
Memorable Moments and Unforgettable People
Ryder-Walker’s history is filled with stories that blend adventure with humor. One such moment involved Nigel Whittington, a spirited British guide. Peter and Nigel once created chaos at an airport with scattered luggage, broken groceries, and Peter’s missing dog. The dog had gone missing while the two cleaned up broken food jars. Rushing to meet clients in Zermatt, the two finally spotted Peter’s dog, Comfort, calmly waiting on the train at platform one—a summer routine for the savvy canine.
In the early days, simpler times created unique challenges and joys. Guests often arrived at trailheads nauseous from smoking train cars, and mountain huts were more rustic, often serviced by mules. Despite the challenges, these adventures bonded clients and guides alike, creating lifelong memories and friendship.
A Growing Legacy
By 1989, Peter expanded into guiding in Telluride, Colorado, founding Telluride Mountain Guides and obtaining permits for local routes. These efforts laid the groundwork for summer hiking and winter ski guiding in the area. Meanwhile, Ryder-Walker began branching out beyond Switzerland, exploring new alpine destinations and creating itineraries for shoulder seasons.
Today, the company operates year-round with a tight-knit team of guides who are masters of their craft. Ryder-Walker’s family-like atmosphere has created a legacy of adventure that has touched the lives of tens of thousands of clients. As Peter reflects on the journey, he marvels at how far the company has come, from its humble beginnings in a campground to a thriving operation known for its transformative hiking experiences.
The Places That Ground Us
Among all the destinations, Peter’s heart remains in the Engadine Valleys of eastern Switzerland. Its isolation has preserved a unique culture, language, and architectural charm, making it a place of grounding for him. The upper and lower Engadine valleys offers diverse hiking options, from gentle valley trails to challenging high mountain passes, all amidst stunning geology and ecosystems.
Ryder-Walker’s approach to hiking remains simple: traverse a mountain pass to the next valley, connecting with the land and its history. Whether it’s exploring new destinations or reminiscing about the golden days, Ryder-Walker’s story is a testament to the enduring allure of the Alps and the adventurous spirit that brings people together. Inspired and ready to hit the trail? Browse our guided trips here and our self-guided trips here.
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